IT BY SARAH G. SCHMIDT

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Does Sartorial Rebellion Exist in 2023?


Be it social conditioning or simple repetition, in the new year I can get lost in thoughts of what’s new, what’s over, and what will stay the same. I try not to fall into the full-on sure to set oneself up for failure, “New year, new me,” mantra, but I’m likely splitting hairs. All that to say, come the new year I pose the following question to myself: what is new in the world of fashion in 2023? 

Before we jump in, I’d like to take a minute to clarify that while I believe that trends can be thrilling, they are fleeting, too. When I question, “What’s new in fashion?” I will not spend much time in trend land. Should you want trend forecasting and breakdown, head to any magazine title’s online presence and you’ll be satiated with endless lists and visuals. Here’s one list. However much eye candy that may be I’m more curious about the why. I’m curious about what’s going on behind the trends to make them appealing to we consumers. I’m curious to consider the desires that are driving the actions or reactions.

I like the phrase, to get where you’re going, you better know where you’re coming from. Both in the literal navigating sense and also respecting the history so we don’t repeat the mistakes or rip off someone else’s work without proper credit. Fashion, to me, has been a lot about communicating who your are. It’s a way to push narrative without having to speak. Or my personal favourite and when done “right,” wardrobe can spark conversations outside of fashion.

For example, pants for women started as an austerity measure during WW2 and post war, became one example of a woman’s right to choose for herself.

Jeans in the 60s and 70s were often labeled as reserved for “hippies” or non-serious people. Fast forward to now and jeans are nearly considered to be dressed up.

Structured blazers can be casual, gender fluid dress is cool, and fur is moving overwhelming faux.

This is not a fashion file dripping in complaining town, population: me. No, I’m sharing in an effort to illustrate the former boundaries have be crossed, rules that have been broken, and a general acknowledgment that if the person is getting dressed and wearing the clothes is doing so on purpose, than anything should go. All bets are off. Do you, boo boo.

The other day while listening to Elton John’s biography narrated by Taron Edgerton, he spoke about clothing in his early career as a means of rebellion. Both in the way he chose to dress and they way he saw others dress. Back then rules were rigid. There was a way on did things and if one did not – Elvis Presley and his deep v, near barechested jumpsuits, Malcolm X black uniform, or Elton John’s rhinestone flamboyancy – it was noticed and noted. “Sartorial rebellion” was the phrase used and it got my blood pumping. What could “sartorial rebellion” mean in 2023?

I think for me it’s the shift in idea that style is best when served personally. So instead of one dressing a certain way to be perceived in a certain environment - for example what we think finance people, teachers, movie stars, parents, elders - should wear, a sort of unofficial uniform, to a more inward-looking point of view. Choose what you want to wear and just get out there. The wearer can decide what interactions they want to field from others and more importantly, what interaction they have no desire participating in.

Question: Should mothers post public boudoir photos or should mothers hide their bodies with clothes?

My answer: Let them live it’s none of your business.

Question: Should Muslim women wear a hijab?

My answer: Let them live – literally - it’s none of your business.

Question: Should little boys wear tutus and sparkles and pink outside of the home?

My answer: Let them live it’s none of your business.

Dare I go on? 

It may be just that simple. Perhaps modern day rebellion is having freedom, capacity, and choice for your own self. No one person should could would wear any one thing. Does that archaic idea idea exist in 2023? If so, why? And by whom?

Perhaps in a time where nearly anything goes except the outdated notion that we can control or dominate or bully or pressure others, the real rebellion sartorial-wise is so clearly stated above: let them live it’s none of your business.